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Francia Polinézia - ahol boldog emberek élnek

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Francia Polinézia szigeteinek felkeresése nem mindennapi vállalkozás, ám aki már járt ott, állítja: minden áldozatot megér! Az őslakók által féltve őrzött természet változatos növényvilágával, különleges madaraival, csodálatos tengeri élővilágával, pazar vízeséseivel és szemkápráztató tájaival mágnesként vonzza a turistákat.
A csendes-óceáni polinéz szigetvilág 118 vulkanikus eredetű szigete közül csupán hatnak a területe haladja meg a 100 km2-t. A trópusi időjárásnak köszönhetően az esztendő minden időszakában kellemes az idő, a november és április közötti csapadékos szezonban 27–30oC az átlaghőmérséklet, míg a májustól októberig tartó száraz évszakban alig hull a csapadék, s ismeretlen a trópusokra egyébként jellemző elviselhetetlen hőség.
Francia Polinézia - ahol boldog emberek élnek A szigetek első lakói mintegy 30 ezer évvel ezelőtt érkeztek Délkelet-Ázsiából. Európa számára Samuel Wallis angol hajós fedezte fel 1767-ben, aki Anglia nevében azonnal „lefoglalta” a területet. De mivel nem hagyott hátra sem telepeseket, sem helyőrséget, így alig egy esztendő múlva Louis Antoine Bougainville viszont Franciaország részére vette birtokba. Ám nemsokára követte őt a legendás James Cook a Szerelem Szigetén, s persze ne feledkezzünk meg William Bligh kapitányról sem, akit a Bounty lázadói tettek híressé. A nagy hódítások korában az angolok és a franciák vetekedtek a szigetek uralmáért. Az előbbiek metodista papokat, az utóbbiak katolikus misszionáriusokat küldtek oda téríteni. Mígnem 1842-től a franciák végleg megvetették a lábukat, s rendre visszaverték az angolok próbálkozásait. 1880-ban kötött egyezséget a helyi király a francia állammal: a szigetcsoport hivatalosan is az anyaország részévé vált, s képviselőt delegálhatott a párizsi nemzetgyűlésbe. Végül nem is oly rég, 1984-ben kapták meg a szigetek a belső autonómiát; kormányuk önálló, ám külpolitikájukat továbbra is a franciák irányítják. Hivatalos nevük Francia Polinézia, a népesség 250 000 fő, döntő többségük keresztény. A főváros Papeete, pénzük a polinéz frank, s a két leghíresebb sziget Tahiti és Bora Bora.
Tahiti szigete méltóságteljesen emelkedik az óceán kékje fölé. Karcsú hegyormai között mély völgyek, kristálytiszta vizű folyók, csodaszép zuhatagok váltogatják egymást. Az egyenetlen partvonallal szegélyezett tengerparti sík a szigetlakók igazi otthona. Papeete és környéke világhírű nyaralóközpontokkal, meseszép strandokkal, elegáns szállodákkal, pazar éttermekkel és – mi tagadás – mondén éjszakai élettel várja az odalátogatókat.
Francia Polinézia - ahol boldog emberek élnek Buja zöldek, fekete bazaltok, hófehér korall – s persze kék, barna és ibolya: Gauguin színei! Ady Endre imigyen ír Paul Gauguinről a Budapesti Napló 1906. november 21-i számában: „Kalandos, misztikus, szilaj élete itt kezdődik Gauguinnek. Vad, rossz, nomád vére akként űzi, mintha két ember volna. Az egyik: apostol, szerencsétlen, szent. A másik: állati, gonosz, utálatos … Párizsban rettenetesen nyomorog és fázik. Tahitiba vágyik, a vadak közé … Hogy hogyan lát Paul Gauguin? Jobban és többet akárkinél. Színt, új, sok színt és vonalat, élesen, együtt. És nagyszerűen összefoglalva. Mondjuk: síkokban lát. Majdnem kókler a színek és a vonalak kibékítésében. Egy kicsi kell, és már stilizált a rajza. Egy kicsi kell, és már karikatúra az, ami fest. De ezt a kicsit ő grandiózusan kerüli el mindig … Hogy rakja a színeit egymás mellé! Gyermek, bolond vagy zseni képes ilyen vakmerőségekre. Nincs mestere, s nemigen lehet neki tanítványa.”
Francia Polinézia - ahol boldog emberek élnek A tahitiak boldog emberek és büszkék a szigeteikre. Most Somerset Maughamot idézzük, aki Az ördög sarkantyúja című csodálatos regényében szintén Paul Gauguinnek állít emléket: „De Tahitiben a körülmények kedveztek neki, ottani környezetében megtalálta mindazt, ami felkeltette és ébren tartotta benne az ihletet, és későbbi képei legalább sejtetik, mi az, amire törekedett. Mintha szelleme, amely mindeddig testetlenül bolyongott, lakóhelyet keresve – e távoli országban végre húsból való testet ölthetett volna. Az elcsépelt szólásformával élve: megtalálta önmagát.” Majd más helyütt: „A Csendes-óceán elhagyatottabb, mint más tengerek, tükre óriásibbnak látszik, és a legközönségesebb utazás is valahogy kalandosnak tűnik föl rajta. Elixír a belélegzett levegő, ami előkészít a váratlanra. Embernek nem adatott ismerni még valamit, ami olyan közel hozná a képzelet aranyosan csillogó birodalmát, mint a Tahiti felé való közeledés.”

Francia Polinézia - ahol boldog emberek élnek Tamará. Így hívják Tahitiben az ünnepélyes lakomát. Ma már persze idegenforgalmi látványosság, ám elkészítése napjainkban is hosszú és bonyolult műveletek sora. Agyagba vájt tűzhely, umu kell hozzá. Ezt töltik meg vastag fahasábokkal, majd ezek fölé köveket raknak. A hasábok lassan hamvadnak el, s a vörösen izzó kövek szinte beleolvadnak a hamuba. E vastag hamuréteget aztán befedik banán- és hibiszkuszlevelekkel. S e tűzhelyen pirulnak az ünnepi malacok, mellettük édesburgonya, kenyérfa gyümölcse és vadbanán. A mennyei étekhez fehér mártást szolgálnak fel, amelynek fő alkotórésze a kókusztej. A tamarát természetesen hajnalig tartó tánc követi.
Francia Polinézia - ahol boldog emberek élnek A noni magasra növő trópusi cserje, nagy fényes levelekkel és apró, fehér szirmú virágokkal. Gyümölcse hasonlít a mi eperfánk termésére, ám annál jóval nagyobb, akár a 6–7 centiméteres nagyságot is elérheti. Éretten áttetsző, sárgásfehér, felülete dudoros, belsejében fekete magok ülnek. Gyökerét vörös festékként használják, leveleiből borogatást készítenek a különféle sérülésekre, s ugyanígy tesznek a pépesített gyümölcshússal is. A szigeteken a noni gyümölcse az egyik legfontosabb élelmiszer. Elképzelhető, hogy a Gauguin megfestette tahiti nők is a noninak köszönhették sejtelmes ragyogásukat.
Maraé a neve az őslakosok kultikus templomainak, melyek közül eredeti pompájában a Papeetétől 20 kilométerre található Arahurahu-templom maradt fenn. A négyzet alakú, fekete lávafallal körülvett térség közepén lépcsőzetesen magasodik fölénk az oltár. Máig valamennyi maraé az ősi istenek, a tikik védelme alatt áll, akik a legenda szerint vérszomjas, kegyetlen istenek voltak, bőséges emberáldozatot követeltek – s kaptak is.
Francia Polinézia - ahol boldog emberek élnek S végezetül ismét Maugham: „Elkövetkezett Tahitiból való távozásom ideje. A sziget kedves szokásához híven elárasztottak ajándékokkal azok, akikkel ott-tartózkodásom folyamán összekerültem – kaptam kókuszlevelekből font kosarat, pandanus-gyékényeket, legyezőket; Tiaré három kis gyöngyöt adott és három üveg guava-kocsonyát, amit saját, óriási kezével készített. Mikor a postahajó … sípja, amely beszállásra sürgette az utasokat, megszólalt, Tiaré hatalmas kebléhez szorított – úgy éreztem magam, mintha egy dagadó hullámú tengerbe süllyedtem volna –, és szájon csókolt. Könnyek csillogtak a szemében. És amint lassan távolodtunk el az öbölből, s óvatosan haladva át a sziklafal nyílásán, a nyílt tengerre értünk, bizonyos mélabú vett erőt rajtam. A szellő még tele volt a sziget édes illataival. Tahiti nagyon messze van, tudtam, hogy soha többé nem fogom látni.”
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2008-12-27
21:35:27

"aki mar jart ott irhatna, ugyanis a 30. szul.napomat ott szeretnem unnepelni."

kelemenné pap julianna
2008-12-24
10:36:15

"Aki járt ott írjon mit hol mennyiért minden érdekel amit a hivatalos leírásokból nem lehet megtudni. A negatívumok is érdekelnek sőt azok a legjobban mert szerinte abból sokkal többet lehet megtudni,pl.: mire vigyázzunk mi az ami itthon helytelennek tartott de ott természetes netán érdemes kipróbálni stb. "

halmos E.
2008-11-04
07:18:48

"nov.15.-én megyünk oda, remélem szép éesz.HE"

Pepe
2008-09-16
20:11:30

"Biztos,hogy egyszer megnézem,mert nagyon teccik!!"

Horváth Zoltánné
2008-08-04
14:28:54

"Kimondhatatlanul, meghatóan gyönyörű. Jó lenne itt élni!!"

boatsman
2008-07-24
15:11:21

"Nem halok meg addig, míg Polinéziát nem látom."

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